多重乳化法W1/O/W2製備含乳鐵蛋白的乳液或乳霜及其特性分析

本研究主要以乳鐵蛋白作為化粧品的機能性有效成份，採用多重乳化法(W1/O/W2)研發乳化之皮膚保養品。本論文分成三部分，第一部分是第四章，本章描述以多重乳化法(W1/O/W2) 製備含乳鐵蛋白的乳化產品及探討其影響乳膠顆粒性質的因素，經由FTIR、UV-Vis及測導電度儀器找尋乳化溫度，調整乳鐵蛋白的濃度、乳化溫度、攪拌速率、油相與水相成分之含量比率、油相成分中乳化劑的種類及含量、水相(W2)成分中乳化劑的含量等因素，調製出不同配方的乳化保養品。將各產品置分別裝入20ml的樣品瓶中，再分別放於4℃冰箱、室溫25℃及烘箱40℃中，觀察產品的耐候性，以TEM探討乳膠顆粒之形態，DLS (Dynamic light scattering) 探討乳膠顆粒粒徑大小及分佈，黏度計測量產品的黏度等及其性質分析。第二部分是第五章，我們提出一個「黏度模型」描述油水混合乳化過程，乳膠顆粒結構隨時間增加的變化情形，經乳化一段時間後，乳膠顆粒結構會隨不同的變因而呈現不同的穩定狀態；乳化結束，靜置過程中，乳膠顆粒結構再度隨時間增加而變化，不久又呈現另一個不同的穩定狀態；用黏度計測黏度，所得的黏度與剪切速率值是實驗值，再設定不同的、合理的參數條件，所得的黏度與剪切速率值是理論值，從圖表說明不同乳化溫度、攪拌速率、Tween 80濃度之乳液乳霜的實驗值與理論值彼此消長情形。最後藉「黏度模型」模型解釋乳液的黏度與乳膠顆粒結構之關連性。第三部分是第六章，我們成功地以多重乳化法(W1/O/W2)製備具溫感性的乳化產品及對其特性做分析。在外層水相(W2)中，以Poly(NIPAAm-co-MBA)溶液:去離子水=7:3取代原去離子水部分。因為乳化產品加入少許微凝膠(microgel) Poly(NIPAAm-co-MBA)而有保水的功能，相對穩定。本研究之原創性及成果貢獻於: 一、首次以以多重乳化法(W1/O/W2) 製備含乳鐵蛋白的乳化產品，並且藉由調整乳鐵蛋白的濃度、乳化溫度、攪拌速率、油相與水相成分之含量比率、油相成分中乳化劑的種類及含量、外層水相(W2)成分中乳化劑的含量等變數，調製出不同配方的穩定乳化保養品。二、提出一個「黏度模型」解釋乳化產品的黏度與乳膠顆粒結構之關連性。三、利用Poly(NIPAAm-co-MBA)的溫度感應性，成功地以多重乳化法(W1/O/W2)製備具溫感性的穩定乳化產品。

關鍵字

多重乳化法； W1/O/W2 ；黏度模型；微凝膠(microgel) ；溫感性的乳化產品

並列摘要

In this study, skin-care products of double emulsion cream were synthesized via two-step emulsification process (W1/O/W2), where lactoferrin was used as a functional component in the emulsions. There are three parts in this research. The first part is chapter 4. In Chapter 4, it showed the preparation and characterization of a novel W1/O/W2 emulsion containing lactoferrin. FT-IR, UV-Vis spectroscopy, and conductivity measuring instrument were used to determine the appropriate emulsification temperature. The influence of W1/O/W2 emulsion factors are the different concentration of lactoferrin, emulsification temperature, stirring rate, the composition ratio of oil and water, the type and content of emulsifier in oil phase, and the different concentration of emulsifier in the water phase (W2) etc.. Emulsions were then stored at three temperatures (4°C, 25°C, 40°C) to observe the stabilities of the emulsion particles. Morphology of emulsion particles, particle diameters and distributions, and viscosities of emulsions were determined by TEM images, DLS measurements, and viscometer, respectively. The second part is the fifth chapter. In chapter 5, we proposed a viscosity model to calculate theoretical value of viscosity as a function of shear rate under different emulsification temperatures (50°C, 70°C), stirring rates (600 rpm, 700 rpm), and the quantities of Tween80 in water phase (W2) (Tween80 = 1.67%, 3%) and further compared to experimental values. This viscosity model was then used to explain the correlation of viscosity and aggregation structure of emulsion particles. The third part is the sixth chapter. In chapter 6, it showed the preparation of the thermo-responsive emulsion which is in the outer water phase (W2), the weight ratio of the Poly(NIPAAm-co-MBA) solution : Deionized water = 7:3 by two-step emulsification process (W1/O/W2) and we did the analysis on its characteristics. Because the thermo-responsive emulsion with a little Poly (NIPAAm-co-MBA) microgel remained water, the emulsion was relatively stable.