現代性下的灶腳味－臺灣傳統小吃攤場所精神之研究

A Taste of Modernity:A Study of Genius Loci of Traditional Food Stalls in Taiwan

陳冠丞(Kuan-Chen Chen)

指導教授 ： 陳其澎

中原大學/設計學院/室內設計研究所/碩士(2014年)

https://doi.org/10.6840/cycu201400833

摘要

中文摘要

綜觀臺灣飲食文化，會發現是一部臺灣近代史縮影，透過多時期移民的影響，及在全球化、都市化的種種現象浪潮下，其變化更顯加劇，到至今仍然不斷的改變、交融中。於其中，臺灣的「小吃文化」可說是臺灣飲食文化中一項頗具特殊性、歷史性、數量龐大的分支，其和常民生活息息相關，分布於生活中的每個大大小小角落，更曾登上國宴的舞台，其尺度有大有小，形式各異，但通常來說，小吃攤文化，其所交織出的，可說是一幅幅與在地文化所共同演繹出的在地風情畫。

然而現代性帶來飲食文化的變遷，小吃文化成了符號消費下的新產物，都市中的小吃攤成了被資本操弄的鄉土符號，人們都在趕效率，小吃成了一種需要，而不再細嚼慢嚥，品嚐其背後文化，許多打著懷舊戲碼外表且與當地較無關連性的小吃攤空間，便出現於各大都市與觀光地區，利用壓縮時空、解構地方，成為地區上演迎合觀光人潮的小吃嘉年華，人們也不知自己所吞何物，更甚者，這些符號戲碼，吞噬許多傳統飲食環境，地方失去逐漸原有特色，將人們帶入了失序怪異的飲食環境，視覺刺激成了消費小吃的主要導向，小吃的好吃與否，似乎已不再過於重要，伴之而來的有小吃文化的符號化、去差異性、複製化、同質化……等各種變調。如從相關文獻記錄來看，臺灣各地原有的小吃攤應是有著原色美和人情家鄉味等各種感性和不拘形式的本質，可說是沒有所謂消費性的視覺刺激，並有著濃厚的人情滋味及在地風情。而在現今社會中，如還維持著舊時風情的小吃攤，更是現今人人嚮往，每到假日必去朝聖觀光的各大地點，可說是，當社會越趨進步，人們卻越趨向早期的傳統風景，也印證了小吃攤著實有其不可抹滅的魅力及種種特質存於其中。

本研究透過場所精神及人文地理學等相關理論，著重人和環境的互動經驗，不做單純探討空間表象或餐飲專業本身之討論，而是更注重於人們透過各種知覺經驗，產生於傳統小吃攤中地方感、認同感及各種獨有特質，記錄探討至今臺灣各地，仍有其舊時風貌的小吃攤，其所具有的場所精神，並藉由分析飲食文學、空間文本等資料，探究出何以構成小吃攤所具有的場所精神之脈絡。以此對在現代性發展下所衍生的小吃攤文化之混沌現象，提出改善之道。當瞭解小吃攤所具有的傳統文化特質與架構脈絡，望其當較傳統之小吃攤面臨改變的浪潮時，能有所本可循，而不輕易的陷入視覺刺激的符號消費空間中，並希冀其研究可給相關領域設計者、經營者等相關人士產業有關更多在地飲食文化底蘊的知識和感性特質，供其參考或應用。

關鍵字

場所精神 ； 地方感 ； 現代性 ； 飲食文化 ； 小吃攤

並列摘要

Abstract

Looking Taiwanese Culinary Culture, you will find that it is a miniature of Taiwan’s history. By the influence of immigration and the phenomena under the wave of globalization and urbanization, the changes are even more aggravated, constantly blending and shifting. Among all, “Snack Culture” is one of the most unique, historical, and numerous branch in Taiwan Culinary Culture. It is closely related to people’s everyday life. What’s more, snack culture has been on the international stage, in various scales and forms. Snack culture is just like a picture interwoven with the local culture.

However, modernity brings about changes in food culture, and snack culture has become the new product of symbol consumption. Food Stalls in the cities has become the local symbols by the manipulation of capitalism. Time is money; efficiency becomes very important. Therefore, snack is a need. People no longer take time savoring food or the culture behind it. As a result, a lot of food Stalls spaces, advertising nostalgic but unrelated to local culture, appear in every big city and tourist site. Compressing time and space, these food Stalls form a snack carnival, catering to and attracting tourist. People have little idea of what they are consuming. Even worse, these symbols have swallowed many traditional diet environment, making local places losing their original distinguishing features and bringing about chaos in diet environment. Visual stimuli becomes the main guidance of choosing snacks. Whether snacks are tasty or not seems not so important anymore. What comes along are a series of reformations within snack culture, including symbolization, undifferentiating, duplication, homogenization, etc. Through related literary reviews, Taiwan’s local food stalls are supposed to have the nature of their originality, the taste of home, and other sensibilities, enriched with hospitality and local life. Nowadays, traditional food Stalls are the must-go places during vacations. It is to say, the more advanced the society is, the more people yearn for traditional life. This shows that food Stalls has its charm and incomparable traits.

Based on the related theories on Genius loci and human geography, this research puts emphasis on the experience of interaction between human and the environment. Instead of simply discussing space and repast itself, this research focuses on people’s senses experience of traditional snacks’ sense of place, identity and many other traits. By recording and looking into the traditional food Stalls in Taiwan and its Genius loci, and through analyzing information on dietary literature,books of space, this research aims to explore the context of Genius loci on the construction of food Stalls. Moreover, this research is done in the hope that there would be a way to improve the chaos within the culture of food Stalls formed by the development of modernity. After knowing the traditional culture and the context of food Stalls, we will have an example to follow when facing the waves of reformation. I hope that this research can provide designers and managers of related fields with more information on the ideas of food culture for their reference and application.

並列關鍵字

Genius Loci ； Sense of place ； Modernity ； Food Stalls ； Culinary Culture

參考文獻

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