家鄉味的傳遞圖像：跨界婚姻移民下的越南酸湯記憶

Representation of the taste of home town: The memory of Vietnamese “canh chua” of cross-border marriage migrants in Taiwan

馬欣榆(Emily S. Ma)

指導教授 ： 林開忠

國立暨南國際大學/人文學院/東南亞研究所/碩士(2009年)

https://doi.org/10.6837/NCNU.2009.00184

摘要

本研究藉由代表越南傳統生活方式的「酸湯」，一種四百多年來普及於越南的家常菜餚作為觀察的指標，從越南飲食文化的脈絡梳理開始，探討酸湯在越南原生文化下的地位，再進一步透過文化迴路的概念，分析跨界婚姻對酸湯味道傳遞所造成的影響。
研究發現，酸湯屬於越南家常料理的一部份，也足以代表越南的飲食文化特色，烙印在每個離鄉遊子的心中，成為他們口中「媽媽的味道」。面對跨界婚姻而移民來台的越籍女性，身處迥然不同的生活環境，啜飲記憶中的酸甜滋味是思鄉的慰藉，也是他們身份認同的最佳表徵，更是早已形塑在他們生命裡的「集體記憶」；酸湯鮮明了族群的旗幟，形成新的文化認同。在家庭的領域中，酸湯的味道成了主流的邊緣，酸湯在此成了被異化的他者，她們則成了被邊緣化的他族。傳承自家鄉的味道，在屬於母親的記憶拼湊與其子女記憶建構中，順應環境與權力的氛圍，孩子口中的味道，已不單純只有媽媽來自越南的味道，而是一份經過雜揉（hybridize）後於異地再現的特別文化味道。

關鍵字

越南酸湯 ； 跨界婚姻移民 ； 集體記憶 ； 飲食文化

並列摘要

The study focuses on “canh chua,” a common Vietnamese sour soup which has been popular in Vietnam for more than 400 years, and looks at its status in Vietnamese cultural origins through the observation of Vietnamese foodways. At the mean time, through the concept of “the circuit of culture,” the impact of cross-border marriage migrants on the transition of canh chua will be discussed in the study as well.
The results of the study indicate that canh chua is not only a common Vietnamese food but a key feature of Vietnamese cuisine, which is deeply impressed in every Vietnamese far away from home; to them, it is the bridge connecting them and their home town memories. As for Vietnamese spouses in Taiwan, the taste of canh chua comforts their homesickness when they need to face the challenges of living in their new home. Moreover, canh chua is the image of their culture and identities, constructing a part of collective memory in Vietnamese and a new cultural identification in Taiwanese society. In the field of Taiwanese family, it is no longer the main choice for meals but some strange food, the other, implying the alienation of these Vietnamese women in Taiwan. To build up and reserve their cultural identification, Vietnamese spouses are trying to transit “the taste of home town” to their children without departing from the norms in Taiwanese society. Therefore, the taste of “canh chua” is not only “the taste from Vietnam” but a unique taste reappeared outside of their mothers’ home town with hybridization.

並列關鍵字

canh chua ； sour soup ； Vietnamese foodways ； collective memory

參考文獻

中文部分

Eisuke Sakakibara（2007）《吃遍世界看經濟》戴文彪譯。臺北：財訊。

Fernandez-Armesto F.（2005）《食物的歷史—透視人類的飲食與文明》（Food：A History）韓良憶譯。臺北：左岸文化。

Halbwachs, M.（2002）《論集體記憶》（On collective memory）畢然、郭金華譯。上海 : 上海人民出版社。

Mintz, S.W.（2001）《吃：漫遊飲食行為、文化與歷史的金三角地帶》（Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom）林為正譯。臺北：藍鯨。