臺灣戰後凍頂茶產製與在地技藝的傳承

臺灣茶產業於1865年始出現在對外貿易史上，臺灣茶於清治後期即為臺灣出口之重點產業，並於日治時期開始出現企業化的經營模式，直到戰後政府亦積極推動茶業貿易，臺灣茶產業從1865年開始，百年來皆以出口為導向。值得探究的是，1980年代後臺灣茶業全面翻轉，從原先的出口轉為內銷導向，即言臺灣本身對於茶葉的需求量大增。此外，茶葉的產製亦從工廠的大量生產模式改為農民自產、自製、自銷的精緻農業，間接促成了中南部茶園與高海拔茶園的興起。 1980年代臺灣凍頂茶發展蓬勃興盛，其中「凍頂茶優良茶比賽」為促成產業快速發展的重要因素之一。而梳理臺灣茶葉的發展脈絡後可以得知比賽茶機制對臺灣茶發展不完全是正向效益，過於強調消費者導向，對於茶葉製作技藝產生些許負面效應。藉由田野參與實作與深度訪談，將臺灣凍頂茶製作技藝之流變完整陳述。其中，茶葉製程須依據茶葉特性調整製作細節，因此可以得知茶區的不同，所種植的品種、天氣、土壤等等也有其差異，而這個差異就形成了多元性的地方特色。透過討論現有的製茶技藝，進而得知製茶技藝的學習並非一般理論的建構，反而是藉由師徒制的傳承，將默會知識延續下去。隨著現代工業化的發展，製作技藝逐漸消逝於時代的洪流。本篇論文藉由探討製茶傳統技藝，期許能為茶產業的永續發展盡一份心力。

關鍵字

凍頂烏龍茶；製茶工序；默會知識；地方知識；師徒制

並列摘要

The earliest record of Taiwanese tea export dates back to 1865. Tea was the major export product for Taiwan during the end of the Qing dynasty. Since the Japanese occupation, the tea industry's operation methods was commercialized; and the government continued to push for its growth even after the war. And for the following century, tea was mainly sold externally. After the 1980s, there was a major shift in which the tea industry internalized and was mainly sold domestically. The demand for tea grew in Taiwan and the production changed from industrialized to local tea farms where the farmers grow, harvest, and sell their own crops. The quality of the produce improved significantly, which led to the rapid growth of the tea-growing industry in the South Central, as well as high altitude areas of Taiwan. Dong Ding tea flourished in Taiwan during the 1980s, one of the most important factors is the "Dong Ding Tea Exceptional Tea Competition". Though it popularized the tea in Taiwan, it did not have an entirely positive impact to the development of tea production craftsmanship. The Judges from the competition were subjective and leaned towards taste that consumers prefer. The true art of crafting quality tea was neglected in the process. Through fieldwork and in-depth interviews, I try to preserve its fine art of growing and crafting Dong Ding tea. Each type of tea has its own characteristics and varying methods of growing. One should consider the type of tea, weather conditions, and soil. The different elements for growing tea from each plantation creates a diverse "taste" for each region in Taiwan. The art of crafting is not a recipe in which it can be easily transferred. On the contrary, it is passed down from mentors to students through years of learning and practice. However, the art of crafting is diminishing as we move along the tides of modern industrialization. This paper explores the traditional crafts of tea production, in an attempt to contribute to the preservation of the traditional tea production industry.