中文摘要 人口老化是全球性的趨勢,而老化後最明顯的即是皮膚外觀的變化,因此延緩皮膚老化的活性成分特別受到矚目。因此化妝品的誕生變成為另一種預防老化和保養的方法。基於消費者對於化妝品的功能性訴求,希望在使用同ㄧ產品即可得到多重功效如保濕、美白、抗老、防曬等,所以當今化妝品的成分逐漸趨向複雜多元化而採用天然的原料更成為化妝品發展的趨勢。近年來化妝品市場崇尚自然,人們逐漸捨棄以化學成分合成物所組成的化妝品,因此以天然植物之物質作為化妝品成分的來源成為一股趨勢。在歷代本草與文獻中,許多中草藥和天然動物製品具有防治皮膚病、防曬、增強皮膚營養的功能,對於乾燥、色斑、粉刺、皺紋等皮膚缺陷有彌補功能同時,還能增強皮膚彈性、減少皮膚角化、色素沉著,防止皮脂功能減退等多種作用。因此中草藥應用於化妝品視為現代化妝品以天然素材為原料的潮流。本文將介紹紫草、新疆紫草、龍膽草、紅景天、川芎、茯苓、白芷、銀杏、桑椹、甘草、魚腥草、樟芝、細辛、白朮、杏仁、荊芥、兒茶素、藍花楹、月桃等適用於熟齡肌膚保養品的成分及其相關的研究,因此本文從學術探討角度瞭解其可能之應用潛力。
Abstract Aging of population is the global tendency, and the most obvious change after aging is the out look of skin. Therefore, the active component to post the aging of skin is especially looked at eagerly. So, the production of cosmetics became another way to prevent aging skin and care skin. In view of consumers’ functional demanding in cosmetics, hoping to get multiple useful results immediately such as, hydrating, whitening, anti-aging and protecting against exposing to sunlight in using the same product so the ingredients of cosmetics nowadays have gradually tended to complexity and multiplication, and using the natural raw materials have even become the tendency of cosmetics development. In recent years, the cosmetics markets tend to nature and people gradually deserted the cosmetics which were composed of chemistry synthesis, therefore, using the materials of natural plants to make as the source of ingredient of cosmetics has become a tendency. In the herbs and documents of successive generations, a lot of Chinese herbal medicine and natural works made from animals have the functions to prevent and treat skin diseases, prevent exposing to sunlight and increase the nutrition of skin. Also, they have the effectiveness to make up for the shortcomings of the skin that is dry, has mottling, acnes and wrinkle. Besides, they also can increase the elasticity of skin, decrease the keratosis pilaris in skin and sediment of pigment, and prevent reducing of sebum function. So, the applying to cosmetics about the Chinese herbal medicine is thought as the current which the modern cosmetics use the natural raw materials. The article will introduce the ingredients and their related researches about the following Chinese herbs, Chinese gromwell, Arnebia Root, Japanese Gentian Root, Rhodiola, Szechwan Lovage-Rhizome, Tuckahoe, Angelica Dehurica, Ginkgo,Mulberry, Liquorice, Cordate hocutynia, Antronia Camphorata, asarum, AtractylodesmacrocephaiaKoidz, almond, Schi zonepta, theophlline and Green ebony, Jacaranda ……etc. They are the products of skin care which are suitable for use to the mature age. The ingredients of them are not the ingredients of medicine and cosmetics which were announced publically by the Department of Health. Therefore, the article will know the possible useful potentials from the view of academic study.