鄉土食和山水亭：戰爭期間「臺灣料理」的發展（1937-1945）

Local Food and Shanshuiting: Development of Taiwanese Cuisine during the Second World War (1937-1945)

曾品滄(Pin-Tsang Tseng)

《中國飲食文化》 9卷1期 (2013/04) Pp. 113-156

摘要

「臺灣料理」一詞出現於日治初期，原來是日本殖民統治者用來指稱在殖民地臺灣所享用的本地宴席菜。到了日治中期，餐館業者、民族主義者或來自殖民母國的觀光客，依據其個別的動機和體驗，對臺灣料理確認出一個「來自中國的料理，但較清淡，符合本島人口味」的初步輪廓。這個詮釋主要是建立在以宴席菜，尤其是酒樓所供應之菜餚為主的基礎上，充分反映出殖民時代中、上階層的意趣與宴飲經驗。但是到了日治末期，受到戰爭期間食物匱乏，以及地方文化運動的影響，臺灣的家常菜和鄉土食逐漸受到重視。這也使得許多文化人或知識分子，在《民俗臺灣》等雜誌報刊中，調查、記錄、書寫原來不受重視的家常菜或鄉土食，闡述其對臺灣人的價值與意義，使臺灣的家常菜與鄉土食有了文本化的契機。另一方面，王井泉等人成立山水亭餐館，以此為基地，將這些本地人熟悉的家常菜或鄉土食加入原本的宴席菜中，使臺灣料理呈現新的風貌，更反映臺灣人共同的生活經驗與情感。本文主旨除了說明以上戰爭期間臺灣料理的文本化與文化再現的發展外，更試圖闡述此發展的其歷史意義。雖然隨著戰爭的結束、政權的遞變，文化人紛紛星散，山水亭逐漸沒落，其標榜的臺灣料理也在中國餐館大舉入臺後消聲匿跡，但這些文化人調查、記錄臺灣家庭料理與鄉土食時所留下大量的文獻資料，無疑成了當今理解臺灣飲食文化史最重要資產，其對於臺灣料理的詮釋與建構方式，亦是當代形塑新臺灣料理極具參考價值的經驗。

關鍵字

鄉土食 ； 山水亭 ； 臺灣料理 ； 地方文化運動 ； 文本化 ； 文化再現

並列摘要

The term of 'Taiwanese cuisine' was initially adopted by the Japanese colonizers in the early Japanese colonial period to refer to the local banquet dishes in Taiwan. Until the late 1930s, Taiwanese cuisine was identified by restaurants, nationalists and Japanese tourists as 'dishes [which] originated from Chinese Mainland, but had a lighter taste to adapt to the Taiwanese people's preference.' This identification was mainly built upon the banquet dishes in restaurants, reflecting the dining experiences and preferences of the upper class in the colonial Taiwan. In contrast to banquet dishes, home cooking and local food was increasingly attached importance during the wartime in the late colonial period because of the lack of food and the promotion of local cultural activities. Along with the Local Food Movement promoted during the wartime in Japan, some Japanese scholars and Taiwanese writers with enthusiasm for preserving Taiwanese local culture started to investigate and record Taiwanese local foods and folk dietary culture in Taiwan, highlighting the values and significance of these foods for Taiwanese people. The publication of magazine 'Folk Taiwan' and other articles served as a platform on which Taiwanese home cooking and local food could be entextualized. In addition to textualization, one Taiwanese intellectual Wang Jingchuan further represented these local dishes in the banquet menus of his restaurant Shanshuiting (Mountain and Water House), displaying the common living experiences of Taiwanese people. This article examines the process by which Taiwanese local dishes were textualized and represented during the WWII, and also analyzes the historical significance of this development. Although the original restaurant Shanshuiting has closed and the 'Taiwanese cuisine' highlighted by these intellectuals hasalso changed with the new social conditions after WWII, the textualization of Taiwanese local food during the wartime served as a crucial foundation on which Taiwanese foodways can be understood nowadays. The interpretation and construction of a 'Taiwanese cuisine' during the wartime period is also a valuable example for the formulation of a new Taiwanese cuisine in modern Taiwanese society.

並列關鍵字

local food ； Shanshuiting ； Taiwanese cuisine ； local cultural movement ； textualization ； cultural representation

參考文獻

江山樓主人，〈臺灣料理の話〉，《臺灣日日新報》1927 年12 月10 日，3 版。

不著撰人，〈お惣菜向の台湾料理と朝鮮料理〉，《主婦之友》12(1924)：299-302。

不著撰人，〈讚美山水亭記〉，《臺灣婦人界》5.10(1938)：105。

不著撰人，〈國家總動員法要綱〉，收入永田城大，《民風作興の具體策》，臺北：實業之臺灣社，1938。

不著撰人，〈戰時生活の第一步は「食」の合理化から〉，《臺灣日日新報》1938 年7 月31 日，3 版。