極簡主義視覺元素應用於女裝設計之研究

The Applications of Visual Components belonging to Minimalism to Feminine Fashion Design

廖英君(Ying-Chun Liao)

指導教授 ： 黃文宗

中原大學/設計學院/商業設計研究所/碩士(2009年)

https://doi.org/10.6840/cycu200901058

摘要

本研究以極簡主義藝術風格為研究對象，欲探討極簡主義視覺元素如何轉化至服裝設計之實踐及運用。主要研究目的為：一、透過對極簡主義思維及本質的理解，彙整構成極簡風格服飾相關元素。二、探討西元2000~2008年極簡風格服飾整體及季節趨勢之演變。三、了解極簡風格服飾相關元素於趨勢影響之成因及彼此間相互關係。

從文獻了解極簡主義背景及思維脈絡，以及服飾美學之精神與表現手法，首先整理西元1960~1999年極簡服飾相關文獻。彙整文獻後進一步找出構成極簡風格服飾相關元素，並以此結果帶至研究方法進行分析。

研究方法選用內容分析法，其流程分為五步驟：一、針對西元2000~2008年極簡服飾資料蒐集分類與分析為主要議題。二、國內專業國際服裝秀雜誌「芙蓉坊」為主要代表資料。三、根據文獻彙整出構成極簡風格服飾相關元素，並以此分出類別。四、根據Interbrand統計出BEST GLOBAL BRANDS之結果找出服飾品牌，由此結果於芙蓉坊雜誌符合條件之女裝進行取樣並逐一編碼。五、根據模糊邏輯（Fuzzy）之And Operator概念，建構一個考量極簡風格服飾相關元素類別之量化評價模式，進行樣本分析及結果統計整理。

研究結果共計2416件服飾作品樣本，統整分類後進行上述模式的量化分析，主要分析內容包括三大項：一、西元 2000~2008年樣本整體趨勢分析，二、西元2000~2008年樣本季節趨勢分析，三、西元2000~2008年樣本符合極簡風格服飾相關元素之各因子分析，以上三大項分別以圖例及表格的形式加以統整與分析。

經由前述的分析結果顯示，本研究得到最終結論主要為：一、完全符合極簡風格服飾樣本，整體性或季節性分類中比例皆約有20%。二、春夏季比起秋冬季與整體趨勢走向較一致，影響整體趨勢走向情形應為春夏季。三、西元2005年趨勢走向為最不符合極簡風格服飾。西元2000年、2002年、2006年，趨勢走向較符合極簡風格服飾。四、設計師於作品中僅傳達單一理念的機率不高，多為重點式表現。仍強調線條剪裁乾淨俐落，重視視覺舒適性，於畫面留白，僅少數作品用填滿畫面方式表現。顏色、質地、圖案為相互牽制影響之關係。

關鍵字

模糊邏輯 ； 女裝設計 ； 視覺元素 ； 極簡主義

並列摘要

This study aims at a specific art style—Minimalism—and its visual components applying to feminine fashion design. The objectives include 1) through understanding the thinking and the essence of Minimalism, summarizing the relevant components comprising the Minimalism costumes, 2) exploring the evolution of overall trends and seasonal trends for the Minimalism costume in the period of 2000~2008, and 3) understanding the cause of those trends influenced by the relevant factors that comprise Minimalism costume, as well as the interrelation among those factors.

First of all, reviewing references from 1960 to 1999 helps understand the backgrounds and the thinking of Minimalism, as well as the principles and the appearances of costume esthetics. It also helps search out the relevant basic factors that comprise the Minimalism costume. Accordingly, those factors are selected to be substituted in quantification analysis.

The procedure of content analysis includes 5 tasks: 1) Ascertaining study issues—aiming at the period of 2000~2008 Minimalism costume data collections, classifications, and analysis, 2) Representative data—sampling works in terms of a specified national magazine, Phoebes, which is a professional magazine regarding the international community of feminine fashion design, 3) Establishing classes—literature review giving out the relevant factors that comprise the Minimalism costume, 4) Encoding contents—encoding the samples that are screened out from Phoebes in terms of the best global brands, which are reported by Interbrand, and 5) Result analysis—based on the principle of ‘And Operator’ from Fuzzy Logic, developing a quantification model to estimate the degree of Minimalism appearing on costumes in terms of the relevant factors given by task 3, as well as analyzing the results.

After applying the 5-step content analysis procedure to 2416 samples, the analysis of results is investigated with respect to 3 themes, from all samples in the period of 2000~2008, 1) the analysis of overall trends 2) the analysis of seasonal trends, and 3) the analysis of the degree of Minimalism conformation in terms of independent factors. All of results are schematically analyzed.

In consequence, concluding remarks are—1) Samples that totally conforms Minimalism style are approximately 20% for both overall and seasonal trends; 2) Overall trends are principally influenced by spring-summer seasonal trends in that vicissitudes of overall trends correspond to those of spring-summer seasonal trends much closely than those of autumn-winter seasonal trends; 3) 2005 is the year in which the mainstream is the most unconformable to Minimalism costume, whereas 2000, 2002 and 2006 are the years in which the mainstream is much conformable to Minimalism costume; and 4) Fashion designers hardly overall impress an unique thinking philosophy on a single composition, whereas essential appearances are usually partially spotted. Still they emphasize clear-cut lines, visual comfort, and the usage of empty appearance, while merely productions are composited by fully filling all the spaces. Color, texture, and pattern are the major factors whose interrelationships are most inter-dependent.

並列關鍵字

Visual Components ； Minimalism ； Feminine Fashion Design ； Fuzzy Logic

參考文獻

葉立誠（2006）。服飾美學。台北縣：商鼎文化。

林家旭（2003）。流行服裝風格與設計要素關係之研究—以米蘭2002/3秋冬女裝作品為例。藝術學報，第73期，台北。

劉凱睿（2005）。後現代美學之探討---兼論2001至2005服裝設計師品牌男裝作品。淡江大學歐洲研究所碩士論文。

薛美禪（2003）。極簡主義之理念在現代設計中實踐之研究---以德、義、日為例。師範大學工業教育學系碩士論文。

中文書目