混和鞣劑對黑色酸性染料染著鉻鞣革之染色變化

本文選用兩種再鞣劑，改變再鞣混和用量（Relugan GT-50:2%、4%；Chromitan FM:2%、4%、6%）及染色時使用染色助劑（氨水、L-105 Kortan RCN、Newbon TS 400和Sunwet S 40），來探討再鞣程序與染色助劑對鉻鞣革染色之深色化的影響。實驗結果顯示：在再鞣劑方面，鉻鞣革使用Relugan GT-50及Chromitan FM結合鞣劑再鞣，對酸性染料Black LN而言，皮革的表觀濃度比（色澤強度）都比單獨使用Relugan GT-50鞣劑高，使用混合的鞣劑不僅可增加其表觀濃度而且還增加了皮革的豐滿性；另外在染色助劑方面，經由光學顯微鏡觀察鉻鞣革切面之染料滲透情形，發現所使用的四支染色助劑有助於鉻鞣革的透染，其中經染色助劑L-105 Kortan RCN處理後的鉻鞣革，對於酸性染料Black LN，有較佳的滲透效果。

關鍵字

鉻鞣革；再鞣；深色化

並列摘要

In this experiment, we changed the dosage of two retanning agents, using four dyeing auxiliaries to discuss retanning process and dyeing auxiliaries for deep color on chrome tanned leather in dyeing process. The experiment's results show that in retanning agent, no matter grain or flesh, the use of a combination of Relugan GT-50 and Chromitan FM with acid dyestuffs (Black LN) to dye the leathers, the color strength of leather is higher than using Relugan GT-50 alone. The use of a combination of tanning agents was not only increase the color strength but also rise the fullness of leather. In the application of dyeing auxiliaries, we observed the penetration of chrome tanned leather cross-section by optical microscope. It was found that four dyeing auxiliaries had their contribution to the penetration of chrome tanned leather in dyeing process. No matter acid dyestuff was used respectively (Black LN), them had better penetration in chrome tanned leather as leathers were by dying auxiliary L-105 Kortan RCN.

並列關鍵字

Chrome tanned leather ； re-tan ； deep color

國際替代計量

混和鞣劑對黑色酸性染料染著鉻鞣革之染色變化

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