近代華北農村飲食文化的變遷

Changing Dietary Culture in a Northern Chinese Village

黃樹民(Shu-Min Huang)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第4屆 (1996/03) Pp. 23-45

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1996.04.03

摘要

本文採用張光直教授所提出的「食物語意學」(Food Semantics)的觀點，來探討近四十年來山東省一個農村飲食文化的改變。所謂食物語意學，是張教授在一九七七年的大作《中國飲食文化：人類學及歷史學探討》一書中首先提出。他認為作為文化中的主要一環，飲食與語言、親屬組織、政治體制、經濟和宗教一樣，都有其通則、規律、及象徵意義。我們可以採用研究語言、親屬組織、政治體制等的方法，來研究飲食文化，以找出其通則、規律及象徵意義。根據此一構想，本文意圖從三個角度分析山東省鄒平縣馮家村近四十年來的飲食文化變遷。第一，生態環境的變遷。由於生產方式、作物、牲畜品種及病蟲害防治的變遷，而直接影響到人們取得的食物種類及數量。這更進一步影響到人們起居作業方式及飲食。麵食取代雜糧，成為當地居民的主食。第二，信仰觀念的改變。由於國民教育的推廣，以及官方的馬克思無神論所影響，人們在信仰、節氣、慶典等方面也有明顯改變。這種改變直接影響到以食物或宴席來彰顯主要節氣或生命禮俗的內涵。具體例子包括節氣慶典食物種類及其改變，以及婦女產前、產後食物禁忌或偏好的改變。第三，社會關係的改變。近年來自於農村工業化加速，農村婦女直接參加農、工業生產。其經濟地位的提高，也影響及家庭內分工形式。對嬰兒哺乳、家居烹飪、幼兒照顧等，也有明顯的影響。其間接影響，則是本地兒童的生長發育及健康有明顯的年齡及性別差異。本文材料的收集，主要進行於一九八七年到一九九一年之間。在山東省鄒平縣馮家村的調查，除了訪問報導人之外，並對全村一○九位學齡前兒童，進行二十四小時食物回溯及人體測量(24 - Hour Dietary Recalls and Anthropometry)。

並列摘要

This paper analyzes the changing dietary culture in Fengjiacun, Shandong Province, in the past four decades. By using anthropological methods of participant-observation and survey questionnaires, plus nutritional methods of 24 - hour dietary recalls and anthropometry, this study unravels the ＂food semantics＂ (Chang 1977) in this part of China. Based on empirical data, this paper draws the following three conclusions. First, the changing agricultural technology has significantly increased productivity during these past four decades. Improved material well-being can be best seen in villagers' improved diet and physical well-being. There is no indication of malnutrition, such as acute malnutrition, stunting, or wasting. Second, villagers' roadways still follow traditional beliefs in which foods are used as social markers for seasonality, rite of passage, and festivity. Government policies to modify such beliefs and practices have been largely unsuccessful. However, the spread of compulsory education seem to be having direct impact on these beliefs. Thirdly, the reform and open policy in the past dozen years have continuously improved villagers' income. Women have become increasingly important in assuming agriculture works. As a consequence, the family division of labor and gender relationship have changed. Grandparents take up more responsibilities in child care. Farm women gained more economic independence and higher social status.