超自然彈性純棉梭織物之研究

A Study of Super Natural Stretch on Cotton Woven Fabrics

吳文演(W.Y. Wu)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 27卷1期 (2017/01) Pp. 1-9

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.201701_27(1).0001

摘要

本研究使用相同撚係數之經紗與不同撚係數之緯紗，先行織造96×80/50×50/62＂的胚布，然後進行染前熱水收縮後，作不同鹼液濃度與溫度之絲光收縮加工，以檢討緯向自然產生之收縮率與彈性。再依前經驗改變胚布經緯紗密度，經較適合之染整加工，以求得各項彈性品質特性，最後藉其覆蓋率與相關迴歸方程式求得較佳之胚布規格。結果顯示，嘗試設計92×84/50×50/62＂的胚布，其經紗撚係數為4.0，緯紗撚係數為5.5，經絲光鹼液濃度為26Be'，溫度為20°C之特殊染整加工處理後，可賦予純棉梭織物20∼25%之超自然彈性，仿似LYCRA®彈性織物，且其品質特性如彈性（Stretch）、滯留伸度（Growth）與水洗縮率（Washing Shrinkage）皆符合市售品級要求。

關鍵字

絲光 ； 超自然彈性

並列摘要

This study used the same twists of warp yarns and different twists of weft yarns, which were woven into grey fabrics (96×80/50×50/62＂), then did the shrinkage test in hot water and mercerization process with different concentration and temperature of sodium hydroxide, so as to confirm the nature shrinkage and stretch in weft way of fabrics. According to previous tests, we changed the densities of warp and weft yarns, also passed by pretreatment and mercerization process which got their stretch qualities, and found the better grey specefication by Grosberg's fractional cover and correlation and regression equations. The results indicated that the grey fabric (92×84/50×50/62＂), the twist multiplier is 4.0 and 5.5 in warp and weft yarns respectively, and passed by pretreatment and mercerization process with concentration 26 Be' and temperature 20°C, of sodium hydroxide, Then due with super natural stretch in 20% to 25%, of pure cotton fabrics which is familiar with Lycra stretch ones. Besides, qualities of stretch, growth and washing shrinkage are also match the market requirement.

並列關鍵字

Mercerization ； super natural stretch