論中國飲食文化之科學性與藝術性

On the Scientific and Artistic Characteristics of Chinese Dietetic Culture

楊昌舉(Chang-Ju Yang)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第3屆 (1994/12) Pp. 81-99

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1994.03.06

摘要

中國飲食文化是融社會科學與自然科學於一體的獨具特色的民族文化，其內容極為廣泛，本文著重論述中國烹飪與食品加工、中國飲食和飲食活動的科學性與藝術性。用料廣博、選料嚴格是中國烹飪與食品加工的特色，也是製作美味佳餚和上乘食品的先決條件。刀工是中國烹飪傳統技藝中的一絕，它與熱傳遞、擴散作用、菜餚形態和原料入味等均有密切的關係。掛糊或上漿能保持原料光滑飽滿的形態和豐富菜餚質感的內容。火候是菜餚製作成敗的關鍵，它雖然千變萬化，但並非無規律可循，當火候恰到好處時，食物就呈現出最佳狀態。因此，有經驗的中國廚師對火候的控制得心應手，掌握自如。調味不僅是除去惡味，突出正味，增進香氣與美味的一種操作技術，而且根據味感物質對人體的生理刺激和心理作用，巧妙地為食用者提供最佳的味道組合和順序。中國自古以來就倡導「五穀為養，五果為助，五畜為益，五菜為充」的飲食結構。這種飲食組合即使以現代營養平街理論來衡量，也是一種十分合理的結構。人類不僅要在飲食中獲得生命活動所需的能量和營養素，而且要從中得到一種高於生存需要的享受。因此，講究食物的外觀內質，豐富飲食活動的審美情趣，追求優雅諧調的飲食環境，成為中國飲食文化的重要組成部分。中國飲食和飲食活動給人們的不僅是視覺、嗅覺、味覺和觸覺的滿足，而且是物質與精神、科學與藝術相互交融的享受。飲食文化是指與人類飲食有關的一切文化現象，即人們在飲食活動中所創造的各種物質財富與精神財富的總和。以勤勞智慧著稱於世的中華民族，在幾千年反覆實踐認知的過程中，創造了世界上無以倫比的中國飲食文化。它涵蓋著史學、哲學、美學、文學、化學、生物學、物理學、食品學、營養學、衛生學和工藝學等眾多學科，是融社會科學與自然科學於一體的獨具特色的民族文化。中華大地，幅員遼闊，民族眾多，歷史悠久。因此，中國飲食文化表現出強烈的地域性、民族性和年代性，然而貫穿其中並不為地區、民族和時間而轉移的是中國飲食文化的科學性和藝術性，它表現在飲食文化中的各個方面。本文著重論述中國烹飪和食品加工、中國飲食和飲食活動中的科學性與藝術性。

並列摘要

Chinese dietetic culture is a distinctive national culture that combines natrual science with social science, and realtes to a very extensive range of contents. This paper puts emphasis on the scientific and artistic characteristics of the Chinese food cooking and processing, and on Chinese food and eating practices. A great range of materials and a strict choice, these are the special features of the Chinese cuisine and food preparing, and are also the prerequisite to make delicious and first-class food. Cutting is a unique technique in Chinese traditional cuisine. It decides the heat transmission, spread and the shape and taste of the food. Pasting makes the appearance of the dishes smooth and plump, and enriches their sense of texture. Temperature-control is the key in Chinese cooking. When the temperature is controlled and used correctly, the dishes will reach a perfect condition. Although the temperature control is intricate and volatile, there are still laws to follow. Experienced Chinese cooks are also experts of temperature control. Seasoning is not only an operating technique to eliminate bad tastes and increase flavours and deliciousness, but also an ingenious method of organizing the tastes according to their physiological and psychological function. The ancient Chinese formed and advocated a dietetic structure, saying ＂Five cereals for support, five fruits for assistance, five domestic animals to nourish, and five vegetables to sustain＂ This structure is quite sound even according to modern theories of nutriton equilibrium. What people want to get in eating is not just the energy and nutrition needed for life sustainance also for enjoyment which is greader than demands for survival. Hence the pursuit of the elegant appearance and inherent qualities that increase the aesthetic interest of dietetic activities. They establisha tranquil and harmonious eating environment, which is important in Chinese dietetic culture. Chinese food and dietetic practices give people not only satisfaction of the senses of sight, smell, taste and texure, but also an enjoyment that combines material with spirit, science with art.