中國飲食文化的地域性及其融合

The Regionalism of Chinese Dietetic Culture and its intermingling

徐苹芳(Ping-Fang Xu)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第4屆 (1996/03) Pp. 83-109

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1996.04.06

摘要

中國飲食文化從遠古史前時期的狩獵採集經濟開始，即因地理緯度之不同，氣候之不同，植被之不同，棲息的動物群之不同，人類的食物便出現地域之差別。迨農業出現以後，此種差別愈益明顯。栽培的主食物，北方是粟和黍，南方是稻。南北之分界大體上以秦嶺和淮河流域局限。中國飲食文化的地域性，主要表現在主食的種類和副食的品種上，烹飪技術也因主副食品種的不同而有所差別，這種差別也因時代的不同而變化。域外的影響也不可忽視，但是中國飲食文化始終保持著自己的傳統和特點。中國飲食文化的地域間的融合，與歷史上的人口的流動、民族的遷徒有著密切的關係。從考古學上來看，漢代的墓葬為研究漢代飲食文化提供了極其重要的材料，如湖南長沙馬王堆漢墓、河南洛陽燒溝漢墓和密縣打虎亭漢墓。它們以實物和圖像展示了漢代飲食文化的實況和地域性的差別及融合的情形。中國飲食文化地域間的融合，第一次是在南北朝時代。東晉時期，北方的士家大族把中原文化帶到了南方。北魏時期，南朝文化以保留正統文化傳統而影響著北方。《洛陽伽藍記》中所記南北飲食文化之衝突，也反映著南北飲食文化之融合。中國飲食文化地域間的第二次融合，是宋元時代。北方遼金飲食文化影響著中原的汴梁。汴梁成了中國南北飲食文化的交會之處。南宋遼臨安（杭州）以後，北方的飲食文化，主要是汴梁的飲食進入臨安。元代以蒙古族入主中原，北方食品如「回回食品」、「女真食品」流行。隨著時代的變遷，飲食文化融合之進程，愈益加速。烹飪技術的進步和多樣化，成為飲食文化發展的主要內容，晚清時代的飲食文化正是按照這樣的模式發展的。中國飲食文化是中國傳統文化的一部分。地域性的發展和融合形成了中國飲食烹飪的菜系。中國飲食文化在國際上的影響日益顯著，正以不可遏止的趨勢向世界傳播。

並列摘要

The regionalism of Chinese dietetic culture originated as early as in the prehistory of hunting and gathering economy. It mainly depended on the different latitude, climate as well as the plant and animal ecology, and became more apparent in the agricultural economy. The cultivate foods were mainly broomcorn millet in the North and rice in the South. The demarcation line between the South and the North is the Qinling Mountain and the Huaihe River. The regionalism of Chinese dietetic culture is mainly shown in the varieties of staple food and non-staple food that also make the different cookeries. It kept changing as the time being. Although mixed with some foreign influence, the main tradition and character of the Chinese food culture were maintained throughout the history. The intermingling of the regionalism of Chinese dietetic culture has a close connection with migration of population and moves of nationality. In view of archaeology, the discovered tombs such as that of Mawangdui of Changsha, Hunan Province and Shaogou of Luoyang, Dahuting of Mixian, both in Henan Province revealed a vital material for the study of the dietetic culture in the Han Dynasty. The unearthed objects and carved images show us the regionalism of the Chinese dietetic culture and its intermingling. The intermingling of the regional culture of Chinese dietetics happened at first in the Northern & Southern Dynasties. During the Jin period, the noble families in the North brought the Central Plains' culture to the South. In the succeed Northern Wei Dynasty, the South culture influenced the North in terms of maintaining the orthodox traditional culture. The book Luoyang Jialanii records that the dietetic cultural conflict between the South and the North reflected on the other hand the intermingling of them. During the time of the Song and Yuan dynasties, the regional dietetic culture intermixed again. In the North, dietetic cultures of the Liao and Jin dynasties spread southwards to the Bianliang of the Central Plains (Kaifeng of Henan Province); while that of the South northwards. Bianliang was then an intermingling crossrord. After the capital moved to Linan in the Southern Song Dynasty, the dietetic culture in the new capital was mainly from the North, particularly from the old capital-Banliang. In the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolian ruled the Central Plains where cookeries from the North such as ＂Hui Hui food＂ and ＂Nu Zhen food＂ were very popular. As the time being on, the process of the intermingling of the different cookeries was accelerated. The progress and variety of the cookery became the main contents of the development of the dietetic culture. The Chinese dietetic culture in the late Qing Dynasty developed on the basis of the model. The Chinese dietetic culture is a main sector of Chinese traditiional culture. The development and intermingling of the reglonalism formed the Chinese cooking. It is irresistibly spreading to the worldwide and playing a more important role internationally.