當代飲食「台灣味」：以官方與文化中介者論述為核心

The taste of Taiwan: Discussions on official discourses and texts of cultural mediators

賴建綸(Lai Chien-Lun)

指導教授 ： 陳玉箴

國立臺灣師範大學/文學院/臺灣語文學系/碩士(2022年)

https://doi.org/10.6345/NTNU202201111

摘要

本論文欲透過整理當代台灣在飲食文化領域上，所使用「台灣味」一詞的相關論述進行深究和分析，並深入了解在使用此一詞彙上，背後所勾勒出的認同以及權力競逐關係。本論文將由飲食論述中「台灣味」一詞出現的時空背景作為切入，帶出「台灣味」的興起背景以及字義背後的轉變；其後將透過官方和非官方兩個角度切入，探討這兩者中使用飲食「台灣味」論述中，呈現何種認同關係。
官方論述部分分為政府單位和學術機構，前者將以觀光局作為主要分析對象，透過觀光局網站初步了解政府部門的出發即立場；後者則觀看如高餐等餐飲相關學府中，如何進行台灣飲食文化的研究和教育。
非官方論述部分則以飲食領域中的文化中介者為主，其中又分為以寫作為主的飲食文學家與食評家，以及以料理創作為主的廚師兩部分。文字工作相關的文化中介者們的論述很大一部分會與社會的文化記憶有所關聯，將透過觀看其筆下的「台灣味」寫作與論述進行探討；料理相關的工作者則以食物進行創作和展演，並透過料理的呈現以及相關的訪談構築「台灣味」的展現方式。
本論文希望透過整理飲食「台灣味」討論的興起背景，分析文化中介者的相關論述以及使用的場合、使用的影響等面向，進一步了解飲食「台灣味」字義背後所帶出的認同和價值。

關鍵字

飲食文化 ； 台灣味 ； 文化中介者 ； 美味感官

並列摘要

This paper aims to investigate and analyze discourses that use the term “The taste of Taiwan” in contemporary Taiwanese food culture, and to gain insight into the identities and power struggles that are outlined by the use of this term. This paper will begin with the time and place in which the term “The taste of Taiwan” appeared in the discourses of cuisine in order to discuss the emergence of the “The taste of Taiwan” as well as changes in the meaning of the term; afterwards, the identities expressed by the use of the term “The taste of Taiwan” in both official and unofficial discourses will be explored.
The section concerning official discourses is divided into two parts: government agencies and academic institutions. The part about government agencies focuses on Taiwan’s Tourism Bureau as its main subject for analysis, and the bureau’s website is examined to gain a preliminary understanding of the stance taken by government agencies; the part about academic institutions includes observation on how the research and education of Taiwanese food culture is carried out in institutions that teach cuisine, such as the National Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism.
The section about unofficial discourses is focused on cultural intermediaries in the field of cuisine, and it is also divided into two parts: people that write, such as authors that write about food and food critics, and people that create dishes, such as chefs. The cultural intermediaries who partake in writing are largely associated with the cultural memory of a society, so their writings and discourses on the “The taste of Taiwan” will be examined; those who work with food engage in the creation of dishes and the performance of cooking, and they present the “The taste of Taiwan” through their food and in related interviews.
It is the aim of this paper to further understand the identity and values behind the meaning of the term “The taste of Taiwan” by compiling background information on the emergence of the discussion on the “The taste of Taiwan” in cuisine, and analyzing the relevant discourses of cultural intermediaries for the occasions in which the term is used and the impact of its usage.

並列關鍵字

food culture ； The taste of Taiwan ； cultural intermediaries ； gustemological sense

參考文獻

參考書目

一、論著

Appadurai, Arjun.(1988). How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India. Comparative Study of Society and History 30(1): 3-24.

Arjun Appadurai著、鄭義愷譯，2009，《消失的現代性：全球化的文化向度》，臺北：群學。

Chang, K. C.（張光直）.(1977). Food in Chinese Culture.New Haven: Yale University Press.