關於流行時尚產業應否以法律規範保護及其保護範圍應為何之討論固多,惟其重心均在該產業之抄襲致敬等情事,並著重於設計階段與末端創意成果展現部分,論題亦皆圍繞傳統論述如:創新誘因理論、揚真品抑仿品、新穎與原創性等概念,然於實證上,產業並未大量利用上述論題解決制度性競爭之問題。因此本論文試圖回歸產業本質,以探究智慧財產規範低度使用原因,並尋求可能之替代性規範。 本論文藉由文獻閱讀分析,以學者Johanna Gibson之社群資源理論為基礎切入,解釋流行時尚產業本質與運作,發見流行時尚產業無法與智慧財產權制度敘述相嵌合,實為另一平行於既有正式規範、歷史悠遠甚至早於人為後設之智慧財產權制度之系統─「熟悉慣常的生產系統」,此系統由品味維繫、由社群知識與資源組成並形成內部規則。另為驗證此內部規範之有效性與拘束力,本論文嘗試藉由哲學家Charles Taylor之本真性理論解釋此一系統運作過程,並於檢視我國流行時尚產業時,發見社群內聚力確實存在,然本真性部分不同於流行時尚主流國家往往體現於設計產品末端,我國流行時尚產業實則展現於前中端產業鏈各個環節所形成之生產序列與分工。 質言之,本論文是以法律規範面與偏向哲學、社會學之角度剖析流行時尚產業,研究結果亦挑戰既有智慧財產權制度,強調在地化、區域限制、傳統與文化保存積累於此類議題之重要性,提供對於該產業一不同理解的視角。
Through in recent years, more papers have paid attention to the issues regarding how to protect the fashion industry with IP regulations, and in what originated degree should the protection be offered. All these discussions from the idea that fashion industry is composed with design process and the final works. However, empirical data shows that even if copy and counterfeiting exist in the fashion industry, the industry is still prosperous and profitable. This thesis therefore intends to focus on the nature of fashion industry and the function in its system of production. Main body of thinking is based on Professor Johanna Gibson’s theory of “community resources” and Professor Charles Taylor’s theory of “authenticity”. The thesis provides a discourse of the fashion industry and explains that IP regime is not the optimal ways to protect the industry. In the meantime, one should acknowledge that fashion industry is a local industry in Taiwan. The discourse of the fashion industry in Taiwan can not be separated from the social, historical, and cultural contexts in textile industry. It has its own features of community and dominant position, which provides a variant to the above proposition and is subject to conditions emerged from empirical studies provided herein, which composes the real landscape of the fashion industry in Taiwan. The finale of this thesis indicates that communal knowledge, internal regulations of the fashion industry, localization, and values of diversity in culture and environment should all be taken into account when people discuss the issues. And the findings in the thesis may serve as a guide or a new angle for further research of the related topics.