台灣的粵菜、香港的台菜：飲食文化與族群性的比較研究

Cantonese Cuisine (Yue- cai) in Thiwan and Thiwanese Cuisine (Thi -cai) in Hong Kong: A Study of Food as Cultural Identity

吳燕和(David Y. H. Wu)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第4屆 (1996/03) Pp. 5-21

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1996.04.02

摘要

本文以飲食文化為出發點，用人類學研究文化變遷與旅群意識的理論，探討台灣的飲食與流行菜款的最近變化。自八十年代以來，台灣出現不少粵菜餐館、港式飲茶、粵式燒臘食品店。在此同時，許多號稱台灣本土料理、台灣小吃的餐館也陸續盛行。而在香港，以台灣菜為號召，或以台灣為名的飯館也在最近出現。本文討論這些飲食現象之出現，透過「台菜」與「粵菜」之發展，調查近年台灣政治、經濟之轉變，對飲食文化所產生的象徵文化意義，以及食物的族群特性之社會論述。本文的目的是想記錄台灣近代飲食文化社會史的一個階段，從民間流行的飲食商業化，探討文化與文化意識之動向。

並列摘要

This research explores a new area of study in Chinese anthropology that offers insightful interpretation of culture change through food and cuisine in Hong Kong and Taiwan. Two types of popular cuisine emerged in Taiwan during the 1980s-the Can-tonese cuisine (yue-cai 粵菜) and Taiwanese cuisine (tai-cai 台菜). Also in the late 1980s' Hong Kong witness the phenomena of restaurants claiming to serve Taiwanese cuisine or using Taiwan as restaurant names. Applying the social history approach in anthropology, this paper attempts to understand commodification of cultural items and its relationship with the cultural discourse of ethnic identity through food. Field materials will reveal the reasons for the development of new cuisine as well as its correlation with recent socio-political change in Taiwan. A comparative study of the representation of Tai-cai and Yue-cai also reflects the new meanings of ethnic and national identity.